The first question about bulk loading guns is if they are worth buying. For example*, comparing the retail cost of Perma-Chink in pails to 30 ounce tubes; the price of two pails is $591.98, whereas the price of an equivalent amount of Perma-Chink in 30 oz.
tubes is $1079.60. Rather than buying four cases of 30oz. tubes you can purchase two pails of Perma-Chink and an Albion Bulk Loading Gun and a Follow Plate for $166.98 and still have $320.64 leftover. Plus you will have a great tool for future use.

All our finish labels and application instructions emphasize the necessity for back-brushing during the application process. What exactly is “back-brushing,” and why is it so important? Back-brushing is the term we use to describe the process of working the finish into the wood and obtaining an intact, uniform film over the entire surface.

Although we emphasize the importance of cleaning the surface prior to the application of our finishes, there are some types of surface contaminates that can be very difficult or even impossible to remove with just a light washing. The leading cause of dark discolorations appearing under any transparent finish like Lifeline™ is the presence of minute metal particles imbedded in the surface of the wood.

Most of our labels list the recommended surface temperature range for the application of the product. However, there are situations when you may need to know a bit more detail about the surface temperatures in order to schedule or complete a job. In some cases, there are steps that can be taken to help cope with extreme hot or cold temperatures. Just remember that we are concerned with surface temperatures, not air temperatures. It is the temperature of the logs that must be considered, not the temperature on the thermometer hanging on the porch.

We often get asked whether Perma-Chink's LIFELINE™ finishes can be applied over an existing stain. Since the answer to this question is somewhat complex we'll look at the various types of stains individually. First and foremost, for the best look and performance of a LIFELINE finish it's always best to remove any existing old finish unless it already is a LIFELINE finish. Even then, the existing LIFELINE finish needs to be in pretty good shape before we recommend applying another coat on top of it.

That pretty well covers what should be done. However the question is “can a LIFELINE finish be applied over other brands of existing finishes?” If the existing finish is water-based and there are no signs of grayed wood and the color on all of the walls is fairly uniform the answer is typically yes with some reservations. For example, if the existing water-based finish contains wax there may be a problem with adhesion or “fish eyes” forming during application. But you have to be careful, not all water-based finishes are created equal. Water/oil emulsion stains claim to be water-based but in fact contain enough oil that adhesion may become an issue.

In general LIFELINE should never be applied over film-forming oil stains like Sikkens Cetol Log & Siding, Sashco's Transformation, or other alkyd oil-based stains. These types of finishes should always be removed before applying LIFELINE. But what about penetrating oil stains like WOODguard, Outlast Q8 Log Oil, TWP, Olympic and others? It really depends on the individual situation. Since one-coat oil stains usually don't last more than a couple of years, we rarely encounter a situation where the condition of the surface is good enough to apply one of our LIFELINE transparent stains without first removing the remaining stain residue. By the time someone typically decides that the existing finish is in need of repair there is usually enough grayed wood or dark mold growth present to require getting back down to a clean bare wood surface.

A more challenging question is when someone decides that he or she wants to apply LIFELINE over a penetrating oil stain that's less than a couple of years old. The best and safest way to proceed is to remove the existing finish. Attempting to apply LIFELINE directly over an oil-based finish is risky and the last thing any of us want is for you to be disappointed with the results.

So what's the best way to remove an existing oil finish? If at all possible, chemical stripping is the way to go. The components in most chemical finish removers like our S-100™ and StripIt® not only soften the finish but they also help remove any residual oil that may present in the top layer of wood. Media blasting on the other hand may remove the alkyd film or the oil-based pigments but does not remove any oils that may have penetrated into the wood. If LIFELINE is immediately applied to the blasted surface, there is a chance that the remaining oil residue will come to the surface creating an adhesion problem or blisters in the LIFELINE film, especially on sunny walls. A good washing with Log Wash will help remove some of these residual oils, but it's best to give a bare blasted surface three months exposure for the oils to evaporate before cleaning with Log Wash and applying the first coat of LIFELINE finish.

Some Rules of Thumb

1. If you do not know what specific finish is on your home, remove it.
2. If there are black streaks, mold spots or any other discolorations that you do not want to see through the final finish, clean the surface down to bare wood and remove them.
3. If there are signs of grayed wood or if the existing finish has areas that have peeled, clean the surface down to bare wood.
4. Never apply a LIFELINE finish over oil-based, alkyd film forming finishes.

Homeowners often ask why we specify the use of backing materials on the application instructions for all our sealants. Is there something special about our sealants that require backing material?

Receive a free 2018 Perma-Chink Systems calendar by mail. Order yours today at our Online Store.

This 32-page calendar features beautiful homes from 11 log and timber home manufacturers and technical tips to get the most from your Perma-Chink Systems products.

**While supplies last**

If you live in or near the woods, you probably have a variety of rodents that also occupies your surrounding area. Most rodents like to gnaw on wood and if your log home is accessible to them it may become the target of their gnawing activity. Although field mice occasionally work on the exterior of a home, most of their effort is devoted to finding a warm place to spend the winter. If you seal up all of the potential entrance points, especially around the foundation, you will prevent their taking up residence inside your home. Just remember that they can squeeze through unbelievable small openings so you need to do a thorough job.

During the winter months many homeowners use firewood as a source of heat or create an attractive atmosphere. But along with the firewood comes many types of living pests. Most firewood pests will not harm people or animals, nor will they start infestations of wood within the home.

However, there are a few pests, like Black Widow spiders, that are of concern. Some types of wood boring beetle infestations occasionally begin by emerging from stored firewood. But most pests are harmless, yet annoying, insects like cockroaches, pillbugs, centipedes, ground beetles, and sowbugs that all like to hide over winter beneath bark, or in the cracks of firewood, becoming active within days after the firewood is brought into a warm home.

Although most people use brushes to apply our finish removers they can be applied with airless sprayers as long as you know what to do. Here is some information that will guide you in using airless spray equipment to apply both S-100™ and StripIt®.