Perma-Chink Systems, Inc
Log & Timber Home Care Experts
Michael
Mold and mildew (actually another name for mold) are colonies of living organisms that can grow on the surface of many materials including wood. Their color may range from white to black with just about every color in between. If the discoloration is green, it is most probably algae, a plant, since molds and mildews do not contain green chlorophyll. Like most living organisms, molds require air, water and a food source for survival. Bare wood is quite susceptible to mold growth since the porous surface provides lots of places for spores to germinate and many of wood's nutrients are available as food. This is especially true for newly harvested wood that still contains a high sugar content. In addition, bare wood absorbs water, thus supplying the moisture these organisms require.
Combating Different Molds
Although it is fairly easy to remove mold from bare wood surfaces (Wood ReNew does an excellent job), preventing its growth on green logs in particular can be somewhat of a challenge. Thanks to the internet, one popular misconception is that borate treatments will prevent the growth of surface molds on wood. This is NOT TRUE! Although the presence of borates will inhibit the growth of some types of surface molds, there are other types that actually thrive on borate treated wood. Borates are quite effective against wood decay fungi, but surface molds are very different from decay fungi and it takes other methods of control to prevent their growth.
Best Methods to Prevent Molds
When it comes to preventing the development of mold on wood, the best and most effective approach is to provide a dry environment. Molds cannot survive in dry conditions so if the logs are stored under cover with lots of air flow around them chances are that mold will not grow on them. But as we all know there are occasions when ideal storage conditions may not be practical so in those cases how can the formation of mold be prevented. There are some chemical treatments that can be applied to bare wood that will kill existing mold colonies and prevent the growth of mold for several months. One of the more commonly used products is didecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, commonly referred to as DDAC. It works well and several years ago we used to sell a brand of it named Britewood XL. However, one downside of DDAC is that it is corrosive to skin.
Another chemical used for killing and preventing mold growth is chlorothalonil. At low concentrations it is commonly used for preventing fungal growth on peanuts and potatoes as well as being a fungicidal additive to paints and stains. Sostram Corporation makes a chlorothalonil product named CLORTRAM that inhibits surface mold and stain causing fungi growth. Neat chlorothalonil is very toxic to aquatic life.
Mildew-X
Although there are several other products available for controlling mold, the last one we will cover is Mildew-X. Mildew-X is a dry film preservative that prevents mold and mildew growth on interior and exterior surfaces naturally. Mildew-X is exempt from FIFRA registration.
So, is there a role that a Perma-Chink Systems product can play to prevent the growth of mold on bare wood other than one of our complete finish systems? If a manufacturer or contractor wants to protect their logs at the mill or on the job site during construction, they can apply a coat of Prelude that has been dosed with Mildew-X or an equivalent product that is labeled for adding to water-based paints or stains. This will help prevent the growth of mold on top of the Prelude film. The limitation of this combination is that it must be applied to a fairly clean surface since it may not kill all of the mold colonies that are already present. However, it offers some definite advantages over those products that just eliminate and prevent mold. First, since Prelude contains UV Boost, it will help prevent surface graying due to sun exposure. Second, the Prelude film will keep the surface cleaner during transport and construction. And third, it will help regulate the drying process which to some degree should lessen initial checking and fissuring. We already have some manufacturers using this system and they are quite pleased with the results.
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| Mold Growth on Bare Green Log |
By Jeff Kyger
Northwest Log Home Care
www.northwestloghomecare.com
Pressure washing (also referred to power washing) is the function of using highly pressurized water to remove mildew, mold, dirt, pollen, UV graying, etc. You’ll hear different recommendations whether or not pressure washing your logs is the best cleaning method.
Generally speaking, pressure washing is the quickest and least expensive choice.
One fallacy is that you’re saturating and “damaging” your logs with water as a result of pressure washing. This simply isn’t true. On hard, sound, rot-free logs, you’re only introducing water into the top fibers of the wood.
When preparing a home for a new finish, one tool we typically recommend is a pressure washer. However, all pressure washers are not created equal. Choosing the right pressure washer for the job is critical for the proper performance of our cleaning and finish removal products.
Although paint primers have been used for many years, clear primers for wood are few and far between. Prelude™ is the only water-based clear primer on the market that’s specifically designed for use on log homes before the application of a water-based transparent stain.
Much of our technical literature and many of our articles refer to pH as it relates to its impact on bare wood and finished surfaces. Everyone should have a basic understanding of what pH means and how it is measured.
By Seth Murphy
Homeowners almost always have a list of projects to complete around the house. If interior projects are on your list, don’t let winter slow your progress. The truth is, there are several indoor maintenance projects that are ideal for winter.
Centipedes, millipedes, pill bugs, roaches, crickets, ants, beetles, spiders, wasps, squirrels, opossums, raccoons, bats and mice are just some of the pests that manage to find their way into homes. It’s just about impossible to keep all of them from getting in, but there are several things that you can do to significantly reduce the number of pests that make it inside your home. Most have to do with blocking the ways they can enter. Furthermore, there are also some things you can do outside to make your home less attractive to pest invaders.
Many people do not understand film-forming stains and how they adhere to wood. Much of this misunderstanding relates directly to the term “stain.” In the past, staining wood meant that the wood fibers themselves became impregnated with color and that the color penetrated into the top layer of wood. Even today most oil-based stains work in this manner. Once stained, if the surface is rubbed or scratched, the color of the stain still remains since the solvents carry the colorants into the top layer of wood which make the fibers beneath the surface the color of the stain.
While we call our pigmented finishes “stains,” in reality they behave more like water-based paints than traditional oil-based stains. The word stain itself implies that the wood fibers become stained with the pigments contained in the product, whereas water-based finishes form a film that covers the wood fibers without actually coloring or “staining” them.
For many years oxalic acid has been one of the most commonly used products for brightening and preparing wood surfaces for a coat of stain. Why? Prior to the introduction of organic solvent finish removers in the late 1990s, the most popular paint and stain removal products were caustic chemical strippers which contain sodium or potassium hydroxide. They are still sold at most paint stores, and although quite caustic and somewhat hazardous, they have been used for over 100 years and are relatively inexpensive.
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